Slider Frame

1-24-2012 3.3 hours

Most of my time was spent bending and grinding the slider frame. I now have the rails very close, I think. I ground the front tubes down and the front bow is essentially parallel to the roll bar. The problem is, the specs say is should be 3/8″ higher than the roll bar. In fact it varies from 3/8″ to 5/8″. I’m wondering if this really is a problem. The other modest issue is, it looks like the rails are out of limits for being parallel to the longeron. I think I’m allowed 1/4″ and they’re out at least 3/8″. This might go away entirely when I get the rear center slide rail finished.

I have assumed the aft bow is close to where it should be but assuming isn’t good for anything but an interim plan, when building an airplane. I started putting the structure together that the slider frame will slide on. I have bent, marked and clamped together the F-662 and F-663 (spacer and rail) that the frame will track on. Tomorrow I need to double flush rivet these parts (Steve, this means the rivets will be flush with both sides – they’ll be pretty on top. The shop heads will be flush but not pretty, which is okay since they won’t show).

The plans say I should duct tape this to the plane for now. That sounds like an ‘interim plan’ to me. Hopefully I’ll be able slide the rail up and down and fit the aft HDPE stops. Then I’ll be able to see how close the aft bows are.

In any event, the progress is slow, but it’s moving forward. The canopy is the last major structural piece left to construct. The forward fuselage isn’t done but it appears to be less than one day of straight forward work, which means it’ll probably take two or three days to complete.

1-23-2012 0.7 hours

Worked on bending the side rails of the slider frame to match the fuselage. Getting closer.

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Roll Bar and Slider Frame

1-22-2012 – 4.9 Hours

The session started with mounting the roll bar. It’s a bit putty trying to bolt the roll bar in but it is possible with a little tweaking. The roll bar is supposed to be perpendicular to the fuselage and as the picture shows, mine is pretty close.

Next I trimmed the roll bar support to length. I ended up cutting a bit over an inch off of the support bar, then drilled the #12 hole for the 3-5A bolt that holds the support to the roll bar. I also drilled the support to the rib in front and bolted it on. After this I cut the roller tracts to length, clamped them in place, and studied the geometry of the frame in relationship to the fuselage. In short, the sides and back are very close. The front curve is a bit high. I’m guessing it’s about 9/16″ of an inch high. It is also not parallel to the roll bar. Cutting about 3/8″ off the bottom of the from frame tube appears as if it will take care of all of the parallel issues and most (if not all) of the height issue. I want to talk to Van’s before I cut the frame – I suspect cutting it incorrectly could be an expensive mistake.

I’ve got a few ideas about how to drill the HDPE blocks in the back. Mostly I am thinking of doing test runs with wooden blocks until I get it right and then I’ll work a jig up in the drill press to duplicate the correct cut.

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Starting the Finish Kit.

1/20/2012 – 3.2 Hours

Picking up where I left off yesterday, I drilled the pilot holes out to full size in both the fuselage and the roll bar and made the funky shims that help clamp the roll bar to the F-721B, aft canopy deck. There are two on each side and they’re different and the left and right sides are mirror images so, in short, all four shims are different. I then checked to see if the roll bar is square to the fuselage and it was close but I shimmed both sides to get it near perfect. Next I started on the roll bar brace. After making some progress, I realized the bar needs to be shortened, and decided to call it a day.

Hopefully I’ll be able to finish the brace tomorrow, bolt the entire unit together, and then built the tracks and rollers for the canopy frame. When that’s done, I have the pleasure of bending the frame to fit the fuselage. As near as I can tell, it is a pretty good fit already but I won’t know until all the parts are in place. Bending the frame to fit is almost always frustrating and has stalled many a project. No one has ever figured out a quick and direct way of making the bends. Should I say, “I have an idea that I’ve never heard tried”? I’m optimistic that I can do this task very well without too much frustration. Then the question is, sikaflex or pulled rivets to hold the canopy on?

And I forgot to mention – I’m already having empty shop anxiety. So yesterday I jumped on an offer someone made for the preview plans for an RV-3. I will not start until my 9 is flying but already I’m thinking, build it light, VFR, day. Simple avionics. One EFIS, no steam gauges, one radio, and a transponder. An aerobatic tail-dragger that gets better than 30 mpg. I think I could live with just two planes.

1/19/2012 – 2.0 Hours

During the course of riveting the top aft skins there were a couple of rivets that could not be installed until after the skin was riveted on in order to avoid physically blocking the rivet and bucking bar. I riveted both of those and a couple of rivets associated with the bulkhead behind the luggage compartment. A couple I’d just never put in and one that I did put in, I wasn’t happy with, so I drilled it out and squeezed a new one.

After that little bit of clean up duty, I officially began the finish kit by laying out the roll bar location, drilling pilot holes, and bending the roll bar to fit.

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Finished the aft fuselage, started the foreword top fuselage

January 19, 2012 – 2.1 hours

I finished riveting the aft fuselage. There were perhaps 50 rivets that Steve and I did not get to and these are done. I also did some evaluation of the work we did and found a minor mistake (sorry Steve). I’ll need to drill out two rivets on one side so I can install hangers for the static tube. Otherwise, things looked good and all I did was tweak a couple of rough spots in a way that an old-time P-38 riveter told me about. When he told me, I filed the idea away never thinking I’d actually need it. Maybe I’ll show some before and after pictures as the trick really seemed to work well.

Next I started to fit the roll bar to the canopy and I marked the location of roll bar and started bending it to fit. At this point I think I am with the 1/16″ tolerance Van’s specs (finally a tolerance!).

Not counted as building time was another hour spent reading the plans to see what I need to do to get the canopy frame mounted and bent into shape. This appears to be a frustrating task and talking to my friend in SC, Mike Hoover, he suggested this step will take months. I had an idea about how to do this easily. Now that I see what needs to be done, my idea won’t work…but, I had another idea that might. If it shows promise, I’ll document it here and on Van’s Air Force BB. I’m hopeful that I’ve cracked the nut – no one has yet figured an easy way to bend the frame. I should know if my idea is sound within a week.

January 18, 2012 – 0.5 hours

I reassembled the forward top fuselage ribs and sub panel and installed the roll bar support. My intent was determine if my radio stack would fit without altering the center rib. My plan is to use an Affordable Panel, after market panel and it comes with several options. First, you need to decide on the “regular size” or the “XL”. Personally I think the regular size will work fine but the manufacturer assured me the extra inch lower that the panel extends won’t interfere with leg room. It probably won’t. Next, you need to decide on a center radio stack or an off-set stack. Traditionally, the pilot side has a six pack of primary instruments and then a variety of other gauges and instruments to fit the needs of the type of flying the plane is intended for. This means the pilot side gets filled with VORs, CHT and EGT gauges, maybe an NDB indicator (boat anchor equipment now) and perhaps an autopilot, and ELT control and other backup instruments. My plane will have two EFIS units, one primary in front of the pilot, and a smaller, somewhat less sophisticated (but still more powerful than most commercial planes have) EFIS on the passenger’s side. The radio stack could go in the middle or be off-set to the right. The only other things that might go on the pilot’s side of the panel (other than switches) are the ELT control and the EIS. The EIS is somewhat redundant, unquestionably ugly and may be relegated elsewhere. The ELT will go somewhere else, if I can find an appropriate and legal spot for it.

So, putting the radio stack in the center makes sense for three reasons. First, the radios (and an independent GPS) are closer to the pilot, second the passenger’s side EFIS will be closer to the pilot, which will be important if the primary unit fails. Finally, the centered design appears to have more possibilities for future upgrades – something I’m not likely to do but something I don’t want to rule out.

It appears that my chosen radio stack will fit in the space available without cutting into the center rib between the panel and sub panel. So, now I know what I can use. The only remaining problem is getting the courage to order the stuff; it isn’t cheap.

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Lot’s of progress…

…but not very many entries. Sorry about that but I think my readership amounts to two people and mostly I am keeping this up to document, for the FAA, that I built this plane. So here’s what’s been happening.

My records show on 11/26 I worked for 3.4 hours, on the 27th for 2.5 hours, on the 28th for 1.2 hours, and 4.9 hours on the 29th. Oddly, I didn’t write down what I was doing. I suppose I thought I’d remember better than I do. During that time I was working on the rudder pedals, brake system and fuel system. I spent a LOT of time turning perfectly good 5052 tubing into scrap as I tried to bend the parts needed for the high pressure AFP fuel pump.

I don’t have any records showing that I worked on the plane in December. That is probably correct. I was working hard on preparing for a trip to Mexico with my wife. We left on December 12 and returned on the 31st. Between getting a bit ahead at work and getting ready for the trip, I don’t recall working on the plane but I have other records to check and I may update this time period, if I find I did some work.

My goal was to have the aft fuselage finished before going to Mexico. That didn’t happen. I wanted to be working on the canopy when I got back, so now I’m a few weeks behind…but so what? I am making progress, albeit slowly.

On Sunday evening January 8, my good friend Steve Steinbeck arrived from Cary, NC to give me a week of assistance on the plane. I think I wore Steve out a couple of days. Here’s what we accomplished.

1/9/12 – 10.7 hours. I installed the roll axis servo for the GRT auto pilot while Steve worked on bending and rebinding fuel lines. He has a much better touch for this than I do and he certainly improved on my work.

1/10/12 – 11 hours. We disassembled the plane back to it’s basic parts; wings, fuselage, rudder, vertical stabilizer, horizontal stabilizer, and elevator. Before disassembling the empennage we did a test fit with the elevator trim cable and discovered that there was interference between the fuel pump and the cable. The end result is I ordered a new rudder cable from Van’s – roughly $160 shipped. That was an unexpected expense. Finally, we set up a new work bench so we could work on the wings. Basically, I cleared the pool table of plane parts, supported a piece of 3/4″ MDF board across the table and put an anti-skid surface over the MDF.

1/11/12 – 10.5 hours. We started by riveting the flap brackets on for the right wing and then riveted the flap gap seal on and prepared the aileron gap seal by drilling it in place and debarring it.

1/12/12 – 7.8 hours. We riveted the aileron gap seal on the right wing and then I removed the autopilot servo so I could “loc-tite” two screws into place that hold the D-connector to the servo. I also worked on a design for the conduit to carry the wing wiring and reviewed the installation manual for the ELT which I’d ordered on Monday. I went with a simple 122.5 only ELT by AmeriKing, which will need to be updated with an expensive multi channel model before 2020. The simple fact is ELTs rarely work so why put more money into one that you need to? I’ll rely on an APRS or similar, but not required, device to actually find me if I need to be found.

1/13/12 – 13.6 hours. We drilled debarred and installed the flap mounting brackets in the left wing but ran out of time to rivet them on. Next I completed the ELT mount but did not install it in the plane. I installed the outside air temperature sensor (a replacement of the original, which I never installed) and mounted the Gretz heated pitot tube. This wasn’t too complicated, once you figured the directions out but it did involve mounting a backing plate to the wing and drilling a lot of holes in the wing for rivets, screws and cutting a big hole for the tube itself. Steve spent about 3 to 4 of the 13.6 hours making 19 hangers to my specifications for hanging the wiring conduit in the wings. The hangers came out really nice. The day before he’d made hangers out of scrap material that likely would have worked. The redesign was lighter, held the conduit away from the lightening holes better, and over-all gave a much more professional look.

1/14/12 – 12.5 hours. We riveted the flap attach brackets to the left wing, drilled dimpled, and riveted the flap and aileron gap seals. Along the way, I discovered some missing dimples in the wing ribs and the rear spar, so I put those dimples on. We installed the mounting tabs for the conduit, hung the conduits, and ran string though the conduit to pull wires through. To get the string through quickly, I tied a cotton ball to a string, stuck the ball in one end of the conduit and had Steve put a shop vac on the other end. Thhhhhhuuuuuck. The process took about 1.1 seconds.

1/15/12 – 5 hours. Let’s just say it was a rough night at the emergency room…and drugs do evil things to people and I don’t believe the people even have a clue about how bad off they really are. I’ll keep the young man in my prayers but he doesn’t see a problem.

We installed the ELT in the plane, ran the new elevator cable and it looks like the extra 10 inches will be enough (not sure until final assembly), ran the wiring for the tail lights, and clecoed on aft fuselage skin.

1-16-12 – 14 hours. We riveted the two aft fuselage skins on. I’m guessing well over 500 rivets and there are only a dozen or so to complete the job. We just ran out of juice. It is really starting to look like an RV – not just an airplane but an RV. Really cool.

1-17-12 – No build time but I put a lot of tools away, cleaned up after the building spree, unpacked some canopy parts and started to plan the next steps.

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Plumbing

11/26/11 3.6 hours

Finished the fuel tank vents, except for installing one more adel clamp on each side and screening the forward facing vents. Next I drilled the brake line exit holes next to the gear leg exit hole. Worked on the rudder and brake assembly next. Figured out where to mount the rudder pedals to suit me (I think – and hope that I don’t change my mind when I put the seat cushions in). Started installing the hydraulic lines for the brakes. I expect to finish this task tomorrow and hopefully will connect the rudder cables and then start the top section of the forward fuselage where the panel and windscreen will go.

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Brake cylinders

11/22/11 2.5 hours

Installed the four brake cylinders on the rudder pedals. This amounted to positioning the pedals, installing the top of the cylinder and then drilling the bottom hole in place. Pretty simple actually.

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Fuel Lines, Brake vent, and Rudder Pedals

11/21/11 3.6 hours

The 5202 aluminum tubing arrived Aircraft Spruce. Shipping on the 6′ lengths was about $15. Originally, I had ordered it in 12′ lengths. AS dropped me an email saying my $60 order would cost $144 to ship, did I still want it? Thank you Aircraft Spruce for having some common sense.

The first fuel line went in very nicely and was a lot easier to install than the 3003 that came with the kit. It may have just been that the 3003 was shipped as a roll and getting it to run straight was very difficult. On the right (second side) I got a kink in a bend and started over with a new piece of tubing. It was my fault for not using the tubing bender. The hardest part is getting the outboard end to run straight toward the fuel tank fitting. Both sides are close now and with the wings (or perhaps just the tanks) off, the last bit should be easy to straighten. I need to flare both ends of both fuel lines.

If anyone is building an RV-9A, a 6′ piece of tubing will do both sides with about 18″ left over. I’d suggest buying at least one extra piece…maybe two. You’ve paid for the shipping and you’ll have more if you make a mistake. I need to be extra careful about putting the fittings on before I flare the ends of the tubes!

I also installed the fuel tank vent on the right side, up to where it exists the plane. Lastly, I set the rudder pedals in place in preparation for installing the brake lines. When I sat in the plane to figure out where to put the rudder pedals, I discovered why people don’t like the gear weldment in the cockpit. It was in my way. I think I may move the pedals closer to me (to force me to bend my knees a bit) and I’ll use a thick cushion to raise by hindquarters up higher. Both things should move my left leg away from the weldment.

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Doghouse, riveting, and misc.

11/20/11 1.6 hours

I carefully figured out how to square the doghouse up. It meant moving two platenuts, installing two more platenuts, and running a tap through all of the platenuts. What a difference that last step makes! The screws go in like they were meant to, not like you’re fighting a virgin for her honor. Nothing much to report other than it came out better than I expected – I had anticipated there would be a glaring hole showing but all of the empty holes ended up covered…or almost covered. Four more platenuts to install that will anchor the fuel pump plate to the fuselage.

My son-in-law came over and we did a little riveting on the F707 and F708 bulkheads. Not sure how I missed these but I did. Earlier, I started tapping the platenuts that are used to affix the plate that makes the back of the baggage compartment.

Spent some time before the sun came up thinking about the rest of the build process. I think, but am not sure, I see a bit of light at the end of the tunnel.

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Mounting Strobe Power Pack, Rebuilding the Doghouse

November 19, 2011. 3.9 hours and lots of cogitating.

I have figured out 3 ways to mount the Whelen strobe power pack on my plane and built two of them. The third way is to mount it on the deck of the tail section under the vertical stabilizer. I trashed two of the ideas and went with imitating the Van’s mount on the side of the plane behind the baggage compartment. Actually I made two mounts, one for the right side and one for the left. I made a cardboard mockup and then cut it out of aluminum sheet. I put the strobe power pack on the right side and I’ll put my ELT on the left.

There’s not a lot to this process. I cut a rectangular piece of aluminum out of 0.32 material and then bent a tab to mount to the J-Stringer and then cut the bottom of the sheet to parallel the lower J-stringer. I bent 1″ tabs to off-set the mount from the side of the plane. I then marked the mounting holes for the power pack and installed platenuts and then used pulled rivets to attach the mounting plate.

I’ll mount the ELT after I buy it (likely this week) and then after running wires for the ELT, the magnetometer, and the strobes, I will be ready to cover the top aft fuselage. That deserves a big “woohoo” like only my wife can do.

Spruce Aircraft says the tubing should be here Monday to do the fuel lines and brake lines and Stein Air says the wiring I need to wrap this up should be here before Thanksgiving. My goal is to have the fuel lines done before we go to Mooresville for Thanksgiving.

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